Mt. Ijen, the blue fire volcano was one of my must see things while in Indonesia, and I was very sorry to miss it on my first visit, so I was very determined to make it up there during my extra couple of weeks back in the country. And thank goodness I had that determination because I’ve not even reached basecamp and it’s already been quite trek!
I don’t want to put you off, it really doesn’t have to be as complicated as my journey, from Ubud there are many places you can book a tour which will cover the journey there and back a place to stay and the entrance fee, an all inclusive package essentially. However, this wasn’t the best option for a backpacker and if you’re in the same boat as I am (having spent more months in Asia than planning on and now running out of money) it is possible to do it for a fraction of the price, if you don’t mind a slightly uncomfortable and mentally challenging journey.
Its nice occasionally to have everything planned out for you, to have the uninformed decisions made for you. But when I decided to go backpacking on my own these were the challenges I signed up for and I relished the challenge. Sometimes its fun to not take the easy way out! Where there’s a will, there’s a way!
Here’s why I believe everything happens for a reason, well you might remember my journey from Java to Bali was not smooth either. But because of that somewhat traumatic experience I discovered a bus station out side all the main towns in Bali where there were buses across to Java! So it was here where I began my journey.
Being travel-savvy is an acquired skill, and not one that I can entirely claim to have, but I’m learning. Rather than take a 200,000rp (£11) taxi from Ubud I walked about 10 mins away from town and ordered a GoJek (Indonesia’s Uber) for 30,000rp. 50 mins on the back of a motorbike I arrived back at Mengwi bus station, not my favourite place, but this time I was prepared for the impending pounce on the tourist…
I was pulled over to a coach, assuring me it was going to Banyuwangi, that there was air con and a toilet on board and that the price included the ferry. Now that brings me to the crux of the matter. It took some time, but 5 months in Asia has taught me that time doesn’t control us, we can go at whatever pace we set for ourselves, so patiently I bartered down to a price I was comfortable with, I knew he was still overcharging me compared to the rest of the passengers, who were, again, all Indonesian men. But 140,000rp wasn’t bad.
3.5 hours later we arrived at the edge of Bali facing Java across the water. Many of the Indonesian men kindly brought me food and coffee while on the ferry. It can be a bit uncomfortable sometimes, they don’t have exactly the same definition of personal space and when there’s a language gap between you and a bus full of men, who are obviously talking about you, it can seem a little worrying because I’m never sure what they want. I’ve never felt threatened but I’ve taken to wearing a ring, just as a subtle deterrent.
Once across the water I was back on Java, and very quickly was thrown a curve ball: They told me to get off the bus. So much for dropping me in the middle of Banyuwangi, nope instead they dropped me 30km away. Grand. Fortunately I only had to ward off one taxi vulture and quickly ordered another GoJek (thankfully I’ve got an Indonesian SIM card). One more motorbike ride, through the streets of East Java, I was greeted by waving children and smiling adults, I’m an exciting site over here, compared to Bali, which is packed with tourists, here I stick out quite clearly!
After arriving at my hostel: Mango Tree Guesthouse https://www.booking.com/hotel/id/mango-tree-guest-house.id.html I was greeted by the very kind owner who made me some ice tea and upgraded me to a private room because he didn’t want me to be the only girl in a dorm. I must say its a rare luxury to have a bathroom and a double bed all to myself! Ijen tour is booked through the hostel for 295,000rp.
After settling in I wandered out in search of some local food for dinner. I found a road with plenty of street food stands. A popular local dish is Nasi Tempong, new name, no idea what it was, so I went for that. It turned out to be steamed rice with a collection of different things on top, some spinach, eggplant, boiled egg and a type of omelet, tofu and tempe (soybean) all mixed in with a spicy chilli flake sauce.
As I was eating it started to pour with rain (of course I have no umbrella) a which point a young women joined me, she was surprised to see a English girl sat there, but it turned out she spoke English, we talked for a little while and she offered to drive me home because of the rain. We stopped by her mother in law’s house and once again I have been blessed by the kindness and generosity of these lovely people. Kindness doesn’t need words to be expressed.
I’m not going to lie, it’s been a challenging day, I’ve felt beyond my comfort zone for most of it, but it’s been a great day. I remember when I made the reverse of this journey and it was a stressful day. But I’ve learnt over the last 5 months not to fear but to relish and enjoy the challenge, doesn’t mean I always will, but I can try, not to get flustered and panic, but to believe that I can figure it out whatever circumstances I end up in.
Now on that note, I just need to try and retrieve the cockroach from somewhere under my bed and I can tuck in for the night. Tomorrow a new climb begins!
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